Hair today... gone tomorrow

I am going to Parakou this weekend for yet another Peace Corps event. I have really been trying not to complain but dog-gone if it isn't tough sometime. I look around me and see so much suffering but the women here hardly ever complain. While I'm touched and inspired, something has to be said for venting from time to time. A woman in town that I know pretty well decided to remind me, no scolded me one day.

Let me just say that I have been having some health challenges since I've been here and long story short, I'm really, REALLY anemic and have a protein deficiency. So, I have been taking supplements daily and trying to eat more iron rich foods. But even something as simple as eating better is hard because I can't get vegetables. I think that it is probably easier to get plutonium than it is to get carrots or lettuce in Savalou. And... well... I'm just going to say it. The food here SUCKS!!!! There are many countries in Africa where the food is absolutely wonderful. Benin is not one of those places. Period. I'll go into more detail about the food later.

Anyway, I have also toned down my schedule. Before, I was working on 9 different projects in town and around the country. I was working all day, through the reppot (three hour siestas between 12-3pm), and sometimes on weekends. I had to put my foot down so I decided to cut the amount of time that I spend at work and the number of days cause it was bringing me down. This change in my work schedule prompted the lecture on how "Beninese Women just keep going and working when they are sick." I was just like "Yeah, I noticed that" but in my head I was thinking "Yeah... keep going and drop dead at 42 of "natural causes". Hmmmm. Women here work soooooooo hard because they have no choice. I don't have the same type of constraints.

I swear, I wish people would at least TRY to keep their opinions to themselves. I know that I have some nerve saying this having always prided myself on being "honest". Now I really know why it is so much better to just keep it to yourself. Geeze Louise!

I walk past this braiding place everyday, one of many in Savalou. The women that braid hair there are sort of chicken heads but, whatever, I have always just tried to be cordial. The woman that owns it thinks that it is the bomb spot because it is pretty popular in town. But let me explain. Coiffeures (hair-dressers) in Benin have some... well... opportunities for growth and improvement with their ability to create cute hairstyles. In short... they're hair dumb. I have a Beninese friend who told me that before I came here but I didn't believe her. My friends from other African countries that live here have had me in tears (from laughing) while listening to their complaints about the terrible hairstyles that they have been subjected to wearing. Also, there is a widely held belief that whatever is white (from the western world or having to do with white people) is better. Straight hair and bleached skin, many feel, is mandatory if you want to look beautiful. Enter Tracy Brown. Beautiful, young, African American woman, a Peace Corps volunteer, who loves her dark skin and is especially proud of her full head of natural hair. People already don't know what to make of her because she claims that she is African AND American at the same time. WHAT?!?!? And to top it off, She doesn't straighten my hair.

Not only do I not straighten my hair but I refuse to and am of the opinion that it's not good for your hair of your self image. Especially the way that they do relaxers here; without running water. Anyone who has ever had their hair chemically straightened knows that running water is one of the most important components in the process.

Anyway, I have my hair in twists right now because after 8 months of tortureous braiding experiences, I have a little patch of hair that is getting a bit thin. So, instead of waiting until I look like I'm wearing a flesh colored, leather headband, I decided to give my hair a rest. This hairdresser took one look at my hair and was like "Your hair is not cute. When are you going to come back to let me fix it for you?" I was like "Ah Bon?" which is like saying "I heard that". Mind you, she is saying this while receiving a burgundy weave with that shiny, cheap, spun plastic looking track hair. The girl that is so lovingly installing this little bit of burgundy brilliance is wearing baby blur eyeliner and almost white "shimmery" lipstick. She kinda looked like the hooker from "Car Wash". Anyway, they do weaves and leave the tracks AND thread all showing. They don't even use weave thread here. I don't know if it's too expensive or un-available or what. No no... they use thick assed black thread that one might use to sew clothing. Not even the regular spool of thread that you get from the fabric store. No no, this is thread that has the same thickness as thread that you might sew jeans with. I swear, sometimes, all my strength goes into holding my tongue. And it's not just hair. People here press you about your religious beliefs and criticize you if they can't understand them, scold you for being almost thirty with no kids, and generally offer their unsolicited opinions on any topic that Americans tend to allow people to keep personal. Sure we in America have people that pry and are intrusive but folks usually look down on them for being nosy. Here, nosy is everybody's middle name. (tee-hee)

I feel like I should say something positive now because I think that I sound just a smidge irritated.

OK, let's see. I like being able to get my hair braided for six dollars. And I like that people here tend to be really sincere. I like the mangoes and the cute little animals that are sorta just running around loose (especially the baby goats). I like that people here view being skinny as bad and telling me that I need to fatten up (or I'll never get married).

Whatever! I'm still irritated. :o) I'm sure that it will be gone by the next installment. Tune in next time when you'll hear (or read) Tracy say "I really like it here!"

Ehdahboe!

Current reading list:

The kitchen gods wife............ Amy Tan
Clock without hands.............. Carson Mccullers
Eldridge Cleaver................. Eldridge Cleaver
The Economist

Favorite song right now:

On va gater le coin ............. Kaysha
(My work partner and I love this song so much that we put it on in the women's center and 1/2 dance and 1/2 work. Ya gotta love it!)

Things I miss:

Good food, dating, BBQ Ribs, privacy, cheap magazine subscriptions, celery, costco, ranch dressing, ovens, and cheese

Current Mantra:

I think Popeye said it best "I am what I am and that's all that I am" which is more than enough!" I added the last part. :o)